The Cordovan Lace-Up U.S.A.
Who Does It Best: Alden
Alden has single-handedly kept the U.S. in the luxury-shoe conversation for almost 130 years. Its shoes are rounder and more understated than the hypersleek italians and ultrachunky brits. That’s why you can find Aldens everywhere—from J.Crew to the snootiest stores worldwide.
You’re splurging for… Shell Cordovan
Shell cordovan is the most indestructible leather around. It’s made from the butts of horses and is traditionally dark maroon, a.k.a. cordovan. But it’s the leather, not the color, that costs the extra scratch.
Photo by Robin Broadbent
The Double Monkstrap England
Who Does It Best: John Lobb
Tracing a trend back to its origin isn’t always this easy, but John Lobb’s hold on the double-monkstrap shoe is widely understood. The Lobb topline (a.k.a. where it hits on your ankle) is just high enough, the cap just forward enough on the toe. Even if you can’t afford them, try on a pair. Just standing in them for a minute is enough to make you feel rich
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You’re splurging for… The Pedigree
Lobb makes your favorite shoe designer’s favorite shoe. The company inspects its leather so carefully it makes the FDA look lazy, and each shoe goes through nearly 190 steps in the process. And it’s all done by hand—the hands of some of the greatest cobblers on earth.