Photo by Robin Broadbent
The Whole-Cut France
Who Does It Best: Berluti
The parisians are known for the visceral, art-level beauty of their shoes, with complex finishes and stitching—and a silhouette that tends to be sharper (as in just the right amount of pointy). They’re statement shoes, reliable compliment extractors, and proof that it’s not just women’s high heels that have sex appeal.
You’re splurging for… Just One Seam
Whole-cut shoes are made from one whole piece of leather, so they aren’t made with any scraps and have just a single seam in the back. Their minimalist appeal also makes them the dressiest shoes on this list.
Photo by Robin Broadbent
The Cap-Toe England
Who Does It Best: Crockett & Jones
If you’re shopping at a top U.S. store and the shoe says “made in England” and is burnished to perfection, it comes from C&J. It’s like a greatest hits of men’s shoes, with its suede cap-toe leading the pack. The firm has been making shoes in Northampton, the world’s dress-shoe capital, since 1879. Take care of yours and they’ll last till 2079.
You’re splurging for… Goodyear Welting
That’s when the shoe’s welt—the strip of leather that attaches the upper to the outsole—is stitched and cemented instead of cheaply glued. So: No rain puddles formed against you shall prosper. Also, welted shoes can always be resoled.